It’s an uncomfortable truth that su filindeu may not be as unique as some think. Anyone who knows a little about Chinese cuisine will be aware of lamian noodles (AKA hand-pulled noodles), which share undeniable similarities to su filindeu.
Although Chinese cooks use strong bread flour (at least 12% but ideally 14% protein) in favour of semolina, the noodle maker always has a bowl of water nearby to hydrate the dough if it gets too dry. While beef is the most popular meat to pair with this kind of noodle, you’ll also find it served in a mutton broth. Sound familiar?
The main difference between su filindeu and lamian noodles is that the latter make use of an alkaline dough relaxer called peng hui. This makes the dough extremely extensible and also gives the noodles their trademark chewiness. Chefs also tend to pull the dough just six times rather than the seven times favoured by su filindeu makers, meaning you end up with 128 strands rather than filindeu’s 256.
Eagle eyed researchers will also be able to see a kneading technique used by a su filindeu maker that unquestionably has routes in Chinese noodle making.
This is not to say for one second that the Sardinians stole the idea of producing microscopically thin strands of dough from the Chinese* although it does make us question that certain techniques are used today that may not be completely traditional.
There’s numerous examples of food and dishes that occurred quite naturally in different cultures at roughly the same time. Cheese, alcohol, pickled vegetables and flatbreads can be found all over the world. On this basis, unless anyone can identify a direct historical link between China’s lamian noodles and Sardinia’s su filindeu, we must assume that the two techniques arose entirely independently.
* Some people still seem to believe that pasta was invented in China. Food historians have consistently debunked the tall story that Marco Polo discovered lasagne on a voyage to China and have firmly placed the blame of this myth at the feet of a food producer’s overzealous marketing department determined to jazz up their wares to a North American audience.